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RE: SV: HMDs

From: Chris Hardaker <>
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 12:15:36 +1200

The flat surface would be easier to manage, however I doubt whether you
could get anything to loop as quickly as this needs to. We are talking about
several hundred revolutions per second.

I like the cylinder idea more from the point of view of spinning it a little
slower and only using say 45 degrees or maybe even 30 degrees representing
the display field.

I have a wee refinement on this, using some simpler(?) versions of kit. It
is reasonably easy to cut a prism from plastic, if you have the right gear,
and I like plastics for weight and robustness. Take 3 small but otherwise
ordinary LEDs and point them at a prism. The prism the prism is cut to
combine the beam through refraction, and then to spread the beams over a
uniform rectangular field. When the prism spins, you vary the brightness of
the LEDs to the appropriate colour for the position of the cylinder. As the
cylinder has a single hole in it, you get a trace across the screen.
What you then do is make say 10 of the prism systems, placing them side by
side, inside the cylinder. You the cut the cylinder so that each LED / prism
combination serves multiple scanlines. This is where limiting the field of
view to 30 degrees of the prism helps. For a single rotation of the
cylinder, it is then possible to get 12 scanlines per LED / prism
combination, per revolution.
So now you have 10 devices, and you wish to generate a 120, by 120 pixel
representation. So each pixel will take 3 LEDs set with an 8 bit encoding of
the brightness of the three colours (24 bits per pixel), you have 10 LED /
Prism devices, each of which handles 12 scanlines, and wish 120 pixels per
scanline, therefore 24*10*12*120 = 345600 bits per frame. Multiply by your
refresh rate, and you have the input data rate. (13,824,000 bits per second
at 40 refreshes per second). As you are effectively working in 240 bit
parallel (24 bits per LED /Prism, 10 of) this would represent a data bus
rate of about 57,600.
As for getting it working, I would suggest a separate 8 bit latch per LED, a
DAC per LED, and use a simple sequencer. How I have achieved this in the
past, with needing to key data to the relative position of a rotation object
is to notch both ends of the cylinder. One end is notched so as to trigger
the input to the latches (which thus set up the pixels colouring). These
notches are placed so as to compensate for the curve of the cylinder. At the
other end is a single notch, which is used to time the start of the frame.
It should be a simple matter of timing the input to the basic data bus,
using the frame start signal, using the latching signal from one cylinder
end to get the data into the latches at the appropriate time and also
proving timing back to the data provider.
Rather crude, and the processing within the data provider must be a pixel
representation of anything you wish to display.

Might just have to try this one.... Anyone see any flaws?

Chris Hardaker

-----Original Message-----
From: Johannes Spielmann [mailto:]
Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 10:46 AM
To: Charles J Knight
Cc: ; 
Subject: Re: SV: HMDs

Charles J Knight schrieb:

> > I would think the cylinder would be better than a tape, since theres
> > no need
> > for spooling, etc. Wouldn't the image be distorted though?
>
> It would be distorted in the same way as a Trinitron monitor -- flat
> top to bottom (or right to left) and round in the other direction.
>
> A short endless loop would be pretty manageable...not any real
> problems with spooling.  And, the "flat" surface should help prevent
> distortion.
>
> Imagine one made from audio tape -- it's pretty narrow, so the tape
> wouldn't have to be terribly long.  There are endless loop micro-
> cassettes which work very well indeed...build a light source into
> the center of the microcassette, and put an optical system in front
> of it.
>
> Of course a microcassette tape is probably orders of magnitude too
> long...just shorten it, which means that less space is necessary,
> so the case can be made smaller yet.  etc.
>

As far as I got it, wouldn't be some kind of a film tape better? Maybe some
sort of 80mm usual standard celluloid film? It would even have fitting parts
and everything you need, plus the fact that it's easily colorable.

But looks like I got something wrong. You are talking about a normal audio
cassette? How should that work to produce an almost-square picture?

Johannes

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