Return to the archive index

Re: one word ..... plastics

From: Mark Willis <>
Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 12:11:44 -0800

Some experience but it's been a while.  I'm in a bit of a hurry, I'll
try to help a little here.

There are various types/styles of plastics.

Thermoplastics can be heated (to soften them), then pulled/pushed into
the desired shape, and let cool so they set.  Usually a big pricey
Vacuum/Steam press or the like is used to heat and "convince" them to
move - you need a mold, either positive or negative.

Some can just be "hot glue gun" welded (The standard "hot glue gun"
sticks are a quite common plastic, you can form a case with a hot mold
and a hot glue gun & LOTS of glue sticks, or better yet a larger melter
<G>)

Some plastics are dissolved with solvents (like PVC plumbing pipe.) 
Some are glued, instead (Lexan? I think.)

Fiberglass could make a pretty nice case, if you can form a negative
mold, someone with a "chopper gun" could then spray this with gelcoat
and then later with fiberglass, you trim and finish it, should be fairly
cheap.  You could also lay down gel-coat, then brush resin in there and
add a few more layers of glass cloth and get a fairly strong, thin case,
stronger than with a chopper gun, just not as quick!  And a lot
messier;  You have to work to remove bubbles etc.;  I've made canoes
with others' help, in the garage, that way, it's a bit of work but the
results are *strong* (We'd have lost a chopper gun canoe in one mess-up
we hit, it would have crushed, not bounced, off a rock in the Skycomish
river here.  Did mess up the gel coat!)

A positive mold, for those not "in the know", is a plug that'll fit the
inside of your desired box;  A negative mold, would fit outside the box,
you then brush your box's body inside the mold.  (You DO get a good,
"perfect" outside the box with this method, which was why I mentioned
it;  If finish is a "Not Care", you coulduse a positive mold, it's
faster to work with, but the end gelcoat is uglier and so on.)

Hmmm, could you just Fiberglass over that metal case?  <G>

Cheapest is to find a case that's already existing, of course;  I've
seen a few cases made of PC board material, even, with wood corners for
rounding.  Pretty good EMI on those <G>

If you can find a local plastics and/or fiberglass shop, and talk to the
workers there, they should be able to help you figure out how to do what
you want to do, learn about the way you plan to go first, though.

  Mark

Jeremiah T. Isaacs wrote:
> 
> so, I am about to venture into the world of custom plastics and dont have
> a clue.  I just know that for my case I need a plastic shell. (it will be
> an outer plastic shell on top of an inner metal case for the boards and
> drive)
> 
> if anyone has gone down this path, has any resources they could point me
> at, 'twould be appreciated.
> 
> --
>                    
> __________________________________________________________
>                |                      |
> www.gurzil.com | www.sonictherapy.com | www.porniverse.com
>                |         music!       |       porn!
>      wtf?      |       pretension!    |     crackwars!
> 
> --
> Subcription/unsubscription/info requests: send e-mail with subject of
> "subscribe", "unsubscribe", or "info" to 
> Wear-Hard Mailing List Archive (searchable): http://wearables.blu.org

-- 
I re-ship for small US & overseas businesses, world-wide.
(For private individuals at cost; ask.)

--
Subcription/unsubscription/info requests: send e-mail with subject of
"subscribe", "unsubscribe", or "info" to 
Wear-Hard Mailing List Archive (searchable): http://wearables.blu.org

+Previous Message in Thread | Next Message in Thread

From Wear-Hard Mailing list Archive (WH)
Maintained by R. Paul McCarty

Archive created with babymail